Since this is a 1971 engine and a lot can happen in 30 years, let's also make sure that this engine has the correct crankshaft damper and timing indicator, and also that the damper ring has not slipped on the hub. 12 degrees at idle, 32-36 by 3000 rpm is a decent rough baseline. Let's make sure it's at zero advance when we are setting the base timing, then (assuming we don't have a distributor machine) use the timing light to adjust the mechanical advance in the distributor so it's in by 3000 rpm or so (again, ballpark). I see this distributor has an adjustable mechanical advance. Once we get the distributor sorted we will have to retune the carb anyway, so let's start here first.īase timing should be around 12 BTDC, with around 36 or so total (rough ballpark). If the static/idle timing really is 18-22 BTDC, you are going to have a hot-cranking problem for one thing. I think the first thing we need to do is sort out the timing issue, before we zero in on the carb. Hope that helps, I really hope you can help me diagnose this! Thanks for all the replys! and heres a link for a pdf fir the same distributor but for a Chevy V8: The distributor has mechanical advance, and a magnetic trigger. What are the distributor's advance curve specs? Does this distributor have mechanical advance, vacuum advance, both, or neither? The engine runs strong and smooth at a full throttle and high rpm, and it pulls cleanly if you stuff it. How does the engine run at full throttle and/or high rpm? Does it pull cleanly when you stuff your foot all the way in it? If slam the pedal past 1/4 of the throttle you wouldn't really even notice it, but on a smooth slower acceleration you can really feel it.ĭoes the engine backfire? If so, through the intake or out the exhaust? Te engine doesn't miss, but it looses power for a second, and so far has never actually died. If you give me a more complete description of the problem, I am sure we can diagnose it here.įirst, when the engine stalls at lower rpm do you mean when accelerating at partial throttle, or at steady speed or foot off the throttle?ĭoes the engine miss or lose power first, or just die? If you get tricky with the gas pedal, can you catch it and save it? The problem: Ever since I installed the system on my car, the engine hesitates/try's to stall at lower RPM's while under load? It is not noticable at higher RPM's and speeds, but very annoying especially in heavy traffic! I have tried to trouble-shoot for obvious things such as fuel delivery system (I also bought a new Holley Avenger carb), vacuum leaks, carburator tune-up & timing, looking for possible surge sources on the ignition system, and I cant find anything?Ĭould it be that when I dropped in the distributor it was not facing properly towards #1 cylinder? Could it be my timing-belt is slipping? I'm fairly clueless when it comes to cars besides the stuff that I have learnt on my own time messing with my car.Īny help at all would be greatly appreciated. I also recently purchased a Holley Avenger carb, that sits on top of a Edelbrock Performer intake. Here's the situation: I recently purchased a high-performance ignition system for the car, this includes the best MSD pro-billet distributor made for my car, a MSD digi-box, the best coil and spark pluck wires out there on the market (both MSD as well). I have a 71' Firebird with a bick-block 400, that needs some help. At midyear, the 335-bhp Ram Air mill was replaced by the 340-bhp Ram Air II.Hey guys, I don't post too often on this forum (but do read it ) ) but I need some help with my baby! It again had a hotter cam, stronger valve springs, and exclusive use of functional hood scoops. Ram Air continued as the rarest and strongest engine option at about $600 over the regular 400. Horsepower on the standard 400-cid V-8 increased by five, to 330. Front disc brakes remained a $63 extra, but some 400s reportedly were equipped with new variable-assist power steering, which provided a quicker ratio yet firmer control at high speeds. Pontiac went further to improve overall road manners with new options such as adjustable Koni shock absorbers ($42). Performance versions of both makes got new multiple-leaf rear springs with shock absorbers staggered fore and aft of the axle, so axle tramp in hard takeoffs was diminished. Beneath the skin, Pontiac engineers continued to refine the Camaro-spec suspension forced on them by GM. Styling was unchanged save for deletion of side vent windows and addition of federally-mandated fender marker lights.
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